Readers' travel tips: Sardinia

The Italian island of Sardinia boasts beautiful beaches and coves, but the mountainous interior, with its isolated towns and villages, is just as fascinating. Been there readers select their best-loved spots







Winning tip: Kayaking in Cala Gonone

The best way to see the stunning coastline near the beach town of Cala Gonone, on the east of Sardinia, is by hiring a kayak for a day. We paddled to some of the area's most secluded beaches, including the idyllic Cala Luna (setting of Madonna's film Swept Away), which is only accessible by boat. It's a fun way to view sealife and the caves along the coast, and a great way to get some exercise on a beach holiday. Kayaks are available on the promenade in Cala Gonone.
hanspanmanc

Cagliari province

Hotel il Monastero, Geremeas
A beautiful hotel situated on the south coast of the island, between Cagliari and Villasimius. Converted from a 19th-century monastery which was later adapted into a farm, the hotel retains many of the original features, and some wonderful old farm machinery. There's a lovely pool if you don't fancy the 10-minute walk to the nearest beach. There's also a miniature golf course and horse-riding in the nearby national park.
+39 070 802200, monasterohotel.it. Doubles from €80 B&B
Sarah2811

Café Van Gogh, Baccu Mandara
A lovely restaurant situated on the stunning coastal road that runs from Cagliari to Villasimius. Quirky features, such as old bikes decorating the garden, a relaxed atmosphere, and a wide choice of mains, starters and desserts – even five or six vegetarian meals, which was a rarity in the region! The owner made us feel very welcomed, often coming over to chat and even offering to make us up some lunch himself when we turned up out of hours (it shuts during the late afternoon). Prices were reasonable, about €10 for a main, and the quality far surpassed the other restaurants in the area charging similar prices. Sit in the garden looking out to the hills opposite, ideally with their pesto gnocci (which is still the best gnocci I've ever had).
+39 070 786082
Sarah2811




Laguna di Nora turtle sanctuary, Pula
Keep kids and adults engaged by visiting the fascinating turtle sanctuary on the beautiful south coast. As well as the rescued sea turtles and aquarium, the nearby Roman ruins and beautiful beach with perfectly situated Sant'Efisio church will easily fill a day out. Best of all, we managed this trip, which was one of the highlights of our stay on the island, by public transport from Cagliari.
+39 070 920 9544, lagunadinora.it
Janemcgurk

Sassari

Il Lazzaretto beach
Escape from the city and catch the Porto Conte/Capo Caccia bus from Alghero to the stunning Il Lazzaretto beach. Located in the Porto Conte regional park, the beach is sheltered by a headland on which stands a 16th century tower. With views across the bay towards Alghero, you can wiggle your toes in the soft white sand or cool them in the crystal-clear water while listening to the sound of the cicadas. Plus it's only a mile along a vine- and olive-lined road from the spectacular prehistoric settlement of Nuraghe Palmavera. The 9321 bus departs from the terminal of Via Catalogna in Alghero – a return to the beach costs €2.50.
alghero-turismo.it
mkerry

Agriturismo Nuraghe Tuttusoni
The best meal I've ever eaten was at Agriturismo Tuttusoni. Agriturismos are farms that offer meals and accommodation, helping farmers to diversify and keep going. There was course after course, all fresh and beautifully prepared. We went at the end of the season (late September) and were among the only people there.
Portobello di Gallura, Aglientu, +39 079 656830, nuraghetuttusoni.it
Frandevine

Alghero

Sardinia has a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous, but don't let this put you off. Head for Alghero – fly into its airport and it's only a euro on the bus into town. It has a delightful old town, excellent seafood restaurants and plenty of places to sit with a cocktail watching the sun go down. There is a working harbour and the town is not reliant on tourism, although it does get busy in July and August. A gently shelving sandy beach stretches the length of the bay, making it an excellent choice for families. 

carolferguson

Castelsardo

Castelsardo is a picturesque historic town on the northern coast of Sardinia, perched on a volcanic headland. After visiting the citadel, explore the neatly packed and atmospheric streets of the medieval quarters. Better still, stay over a night or two (Smorfiosa & Calarina, next to the cathedral, was charming), and see the town at its best in the evening when restaurants and cafes set up tables among the stairways and doorways. Our pick was Le Cisterne Wine Bar – more than just a wine bar with the best food we ate in Sardinia.

Smorfiosa & Calarina: +39 347 861 2095, bb-smorfiosaecalarina.it; Le Cisterne: +39 079 470 605

mrbowlerhat

Oristano

Bosa and Oristano by bus

After enjoying the beaches and busy old town of Alghero, take the bus down the winding coastal road to Bosa and from there to Oristano. Make sure you sit on the right-hand side for the best views of the cliffs and beaches. Explore the alleyways and narrow cobbled streets between Bosa's multicoloured buildings. Cross the river to gain a better perspective of the Havana-esque street next to the river. Oristano is a smart city with a stunning baroque cathedral and pleasant streets to wander around. The city is also a great base for visiting the famous Is Arutas beach and the Roman site of Tharros. Bed and Breakfast Porta a Mari is a great budget option – it's a traditional Sardinian house within walking distance of the city centre.

B&B at Porta a Mari (+39 3402 883861, portaamari.altervista.org) costs €60 for a double/twin and €35 for a single 

angelavilla

Giara di Gesturi

The plateau of the Giara di Gesturi stands 500 metres above the surrounding Sardinian farmland: a startling, rocky ecosystem of twisted cork oaks, scrubland and shallow lakes. A thunderstorm was building one September evening when we first encountered the surreal terrain and we were so spooked by its sharp contrast to the rest of the island we left almost immediately. The following morning, feeling braver in the sunshine, we hired mountain bikes and returned to explore. We'd been warned of the feral pigs who can be rather curious of visitors, but the highlight was undoubtedly the scores of miniature wild horses we encountered – another oddity in this curious landscape.

sardegnaturismo.it

gingergigolo

Locanda il Melograno

Avoid the usual celeb haunts and head out to the north-western coast. We stayed in a gorgeous agriturismo in the hills of the picturesque and unspoilt town of Bosa. Amazing beaches nearby, beautiful town centre, great food and lovely friendly locals – it is everything you imagine Italy to be right down to the buildings the shades of ice-cream.

+39 339 469 7178, locandailmelograno.com

missamyb

La Pelosa Beach

La Pelosa beach, at the north-western tip of Sardinia, is a triangle of glowing white sand set below a watchtower and surrounded by water with the clarity and colours of the Caribbean. It is visual perfection and it is very, very popular. It is also rather small. In high summer you will find that every inch is covered by either a towel or a lounger. If there is not space to lay a towel, sun worshippers simply stand on the sand (looking very stylish, as is the Italian way). If there is no space to stand on the sand they stand in the sea. It is a spectacle to behold and you must visit, but unless you plan to get there very early in the morning, don't bother bringing your towel and parasol.

bpoynton

Carbonia-Iglesias

Grotte di Su Mannau, Fluminimaggiore

This five-mile system of underground caverns is truly magical, consisting of tunnels and rock rooms encrusted with minerals and festooned with magnificent stalagmites and stalactites that glitter in the lamplight. They've been created by the underground courses of the rivers Placido and Rapido. The first cave has walkways, but if you want to explore further you can go in with a group of experienced explorers. Not for the claustrophobic, or if you're afraid of bats, but breathtaking even if you just visit the first vast cavern.

Via Vittorio Emanuele, sumannau.it

Benatech

Nuoro

Hotel Su Gologone, Oliena

This is an amazing hotel. We stayed here as part of our honeymoon touring Sardinia a couple of years ago and it was our favourite location. The rooms are quirky and individual, the views of the mountains are stunning and the food is just incredible. We went half-board and struggled to finish the four-course dinners. Tip: don't be tempted to gorge on the antipasti or pasta courses or you'll never finish the suckling pig – the hotel speciality which is famous across the island. If you're a foodie, this place is a must.

+39 0784 287512, hotelsugologone.com. Doubles from €140 B&B or from €105pp half-board

Claresuter